California Syrah Explosion

Today's San Francisco Chronicle has a great article, Que Shiraz, Syrah, about California's recent fascination with Syrah. This article explains how many vineyards are planting Syrah and many winemakers are experimenting with it.

Since visiting the Barossa Valley in Australia in 2001, I've been fascinated with this grape. I made this year's 2002 Eno Syrah- York in an Australian tradition (pressing early, slight barrel fermentation, and a combination of American and French Oak). This year I was entertaining sourcing Syrah from the cooler climate of Carneros. Instead I went with moderate temperature region of Amador. I would like to experiment with different regions and experiment stylistically. Unlike Australian Shiraz and French Syrah, California hasn't discovered its own style.

Here are some highlights from the article:

• ...more than 100 wineries in California are betting on Syrah's critical and commercial success.
• Doug Shafer, president of his Shafer Vineyards in Napa Valley, released his first Syrah called Relentless from the 1999 vintage. He believes, "If you look at this like a painter, Syrah is the grape for you. Cabernet Sauvignon has a lot of colors. Merlot has a lot of colors. Sangiovese has only three or four colors. Syrah, meanwhile, has all the colors in the rainbow.
• Fred Cline, president of his Cline Cellars in Sonoma, explains how climate influences flavors, "In the warmer temperatures, you get a fat Syrah, one that has meaty flavors and is not as acidic...The cooler climates provide more cherry and peppery flavors.
• Joseph Phelps winemaker Craig Williams who produced in 1974 the first varietal Syrah in California. Although he prefers fruit from the cooler zones, Williams realizes that the grape also works beautifully in warm climates. "The wines are different, but both styles are long-lived. You can't say that about other grapes," he says. "Syrah may be the only variety I can think of that gives you premium quality in both cool and warm climates".
• Syrah vines need less cropping than other varietals. Pinot Noir needs to be cropped so that the yield per acre is three tons or less, but a grower can farm Syrah at almost double that rate.
• Mick Schroeter, winemaker at Geyser Peak in Sonoma County, will occasionally use Syrah for Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon cuvees, "... little bit of Syrah in those wines helps the mid-palate and gives them more mouthfeel," he says. "It helps round out the tannins."
• ...as the vines get older, the wines become more complete, giving more of what he describes as a "mid-palate richness typical of Barossa Shiraz."
• Soil is also key. Bryan Babcock, winemaker for Babcock Winery believes Santa Barbara sandy soil is perfect for the energetic Syrah vine, naturally limiting its growth. "In Napa," Babcock explains, "the soils are heavier in general. Clay soils such as these are better suited for Cabernet Sauvignon. As our soils are not as fertile, they restrain vigor."

Acreage of Planted Syrah in California
1992	900 acres
2000	14,000 acres	7,000 acres were planted in 1998-2000
California Agricultural Statistical Service