January 24, 2003

Similarities between Oranges and Grapes

The NY York Times provides me with inspiration sources. I learn about amazing new buildings through Herbert Muschamp, follow my favorite rock critic Neil Strauss, and read Frank Prial's Wednesday's wine column. In this week's Dining & Food section, David Karp wrote a great article, An Orange Whose Season Has Come, about the history of orange growing in Southern California. Immediately, I discovered amazing similarities between orange and grape growing. Some key take aways were:

  • Prized plants were imported. The Washington navel was imported from Brazil in the 1870's and Zinfandel originally from Croatia was brought over in the 1800's.
  • Rootstock and plant age are very important. Oranges and grapes are grafted on disease resistant rootstock. Also, hundred year old orange trees, like old vine zinfandel, have highly prized fruit.
  • Picking depends on sugar and acid level. During the orange season (January and February), growers pick exactly when proper balance between sugar and acidity, and the fruit is rich aromatics. Both use refractometers to measure ripeness in sugar levels. Karp describes a grower in Bakersfield being alarmed to see a new variety reach 16 Brix.
  • Location is important. "Fruit ripens early in the San Joaquin heat, but cool Pacific breezes in Southern California delay maturity by four to six weeks. Partly as a result, Southern Californian navels have smoother, thinner rinds; sweeter, juicier pulp; and arguably, richer flavor."
  • Size matters. Grapefruit-size behemoths tend to be dry and bland, especially late in the season. Big fat grapes are usually bloated with water. Both fruits need concentration.
One thing I love about winemaking is it brings you closer to the land, farmers, and weather. I'm fascinated to visit an orange grower. Much like a grape grower, they will walk next to the plants and share what they've learned, how one section is different from the next. I will hear about their intimate connection with their, babies, plants.

Posted by Sasha on January 24, 2003 10:58 AM